American Byways

Waking up along the shores of Lake Superior at Five Mile Point was quite the experience. After car camping for the night, I came to and rushed out with my tripod to set up for the morning photograph. Grabbing a whiff of the crisp and chilly air as it rolled in from the shore, I felt refreshed and with awakened senses, I waited. With predictable results, the sun popped out over the horizon, providing subtle hues of warm light along the rocky and barren coastline, bounded only with the evergreens that hug the edge lines.

Living in the Subaru for a few days was actually quite fun. I enjoy my frugal road trips.

For the morning, I wanted to venture to Laughing Whitefish Falls, but roadway conditions led to an early detour and defeat. Following Deerton Road, I came to the small community of Deerton. The Detroit, Mackinac & Marquette Railroad constructed a station for the lumbering camp, and a post office opened in 1922. In 1926, a small school was constructed at the junction of Deerton-Onota Road. Today, not much is left in the community – most of the residences are abandoned, although the school still operates.

The railroad was dismantled only a few years ago, and is today part of the Duluth, South Shore and Atlantic Railway Rail Trail, open to snowmobilers, cross county skiers and cyclists.

Following Peter White Road south to Laughing Whitefish Falls, I came across increasingly deteriorated roadway conditions. The two-lane gravel roadway soon became one, and then dirt. And that generous dirt path became rutted before ending at a washed out bridge over West Branch Laughing Whitefish River.

I turned around and headed back to Deerton, only slightly discouraged. There were other waterfalls to check out that were nearby, of course! I ventured onto a dirt road and proceeded eastbound towards Rock River and descended southward towards Rock River Falls in the Rock River Wilderness. I turned onto a nearly unmarked Forest Road 2276 and followed this single lane route for 4 miles and turned left onto Forest Road 2293. After coming to the small trailhead at the end of a remote and rough dirt road, I hopped out of the car with my camera gear and headed down the trail. The Rock River Falls Trail, while not marked, is fairly well worn and follows portions of logging roads before coming to the waterfall, which has a height of 15 feet and an approximate crest of 30 feet.

After departing Rock River Wilderness, I took a drive over to Chatham for lunch at the Rock River Cafe, which serves local cuisine that was locally sourced. The cafe was also vegetarian and vegan friendly, which was a bonus, and served some great house coffee roasted in Michigan. Near to the restaurant was the former Munising Railway Company (MR) depot, which was later used for a private business and is now for sale. The rail line is today part of the Coalwood Trail.

Heading further east along Michigan State Route 94, I stopped for a photograph of the Lake Superior and Ishpeming Railroad (LS&I, MR’s successor) crossing that was built in 1930. The bridge was built over Au Train River, and the pipe that runs through the center is overflow for the Cleveland Cliffs Basin lake.

After following the LS&I long enough, I ventured to Miners Falls at Pictured Rocks. After parking at the trailhead, I ventured on a well groomed path that was .6 miles long and included 77 steps to the viewing platforms. Unfortunately, access further down and to a lower waterfall along Miners River is inaccessible.

It was only a short drive to Miners Castle, which is one of the most photographed rock formations at Pictured Rocks. But the viewing platforms were expectedly overcrowded and the lighting was poor, so I headed eastward along the Lakeshore North Country Trail, which generally hugs the Lake Superior Coast through the National Lakeshore. The paved path through a thick canopy of pines soon gave way to a single track dirt trail that sharply descended to the Miners River valley before coming to the backwaters of Lake Superior. I was able to capture two anglers who were trying their luck in capturing some steelhead trout for dinner.

On the other side of the sand dune was Miners Beach, which is a mile long and completely devoid of people .

The Lakeshore North Country Trail ascends a small bluff overlooking the beach, passing through acres of crimson red blueberry bushes.

With the sun waning, I packed my gear and headed further east to the overlooks above Lake Superior for a sunset. The light began to fade fast so I hiked at a brisk pace on a gradual upward course to the bluffs.

I wasn’t wholly satisfied with the first overlook that I came to, so I ventured a bit further east to the top of Bridalveil Falls. It was a natural clearing and was prime for a sunset. As the light faded, the storied sandstone warmed up with hues of amber.

It was at Bridalveil Falls that I met storied photographer Craig Blacklock, best known for his book The Lake Superior Images and other visuals from the Great Lakes region. Craig has been photographing the region for decades, and is also a passionate conservationist who co-founded the Blacklock Nature Sanctuary and was influential in the formation of the Lake Superior Water Trail of Minnesota. Also, thanks for the book, Slot Canyon. Your gift was warmly received!

Fantastic inspiration for a trip that has so far been marked with photographs of nature at its best when it is isolated and free in an area that is depopulated and isolated.

Further Reading

• Deerton, Michigan
• Rock River Wilderness
• Lake Superior and Ishpeming Railroad
• Munising Railway Company
• Miners Falls
• Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore

Set between two contrasting peninsulas of Michigan, Mackinaw Island represented an opportunity to visit a part of the state that I had not yet experienced. I made the drive up during the summer to witness one of the state’s most splendid tourist attractions: the island itself. Closed to automobiles, Mackinaw Island recalled back to a time when life was simpler, when traveling involved a meander on manicured pavements, passing by brightly colored buildings, overflowing floral gardens and charming window displays.

But for the fall, I wanted to take in the wilds of upper Michigan and explore Pictured Rocks and some of the waterfalls in that region. I had pictured the upper peninsula as being a barren location, isolated and hilly.

Well, part of that was true.

I started my journey from the Queen City and headed north along Interstate 75, passing by the Gem City, Flag City, Glass City, Tree City and ending that night at Bay City, Michigan. Finding no use in being completely wiped for the day, I located a cheap motel in the quiet town along Saginaw Bay on Lake Huron, and awaited the next morning with anticipation. At dawn, I found myself near the Bay City State Recreation Area, located north of Bay City, and basked in the morning light. Walking over to the Tobico Lagoon, I was able to capture the light as it filtered over the freshwater, coastal wetland. The cattails and grasses wallowed in the amber rays and the clear waters shimmered back reflections of the picture-perfect sky.

I decided to explore more of Tobico Marsh, designated a National Natural Landmark in 1976 due to its expanse size, its unspoiled essence and its assortment of plant life. The marsh encompasses nearly 2,000 acres of wetland woods, meadows, cattail marshlands and oak savannah prairies, and is one of the largest freshwater, coastal wetlands on the Great Lakes.

With the sun rising and my itch to head further north, I departed Tobico Marsh for the interstate only to stop soon after to explore the small lakes around appropriately-named Waters. I hoped onto the Au Sable Trail and some other back routes before coming onto Lynn Lake. Unfortunately, most of the great vistas were not accessible due to private land ownership, but I reached, in a roundabout manner, Otsego Lake State Park. Established in 1920, Otsego features a half-mile of white, sandy beach, 62 acres of a natural playground shaded with large oak, maple and pine trees. As an added bonus, there are some original Civilian Conservation Corp (CCC) buildings on site dating to 1935!

The air was crisp, the skies were a nice blue tinge and the sand was cozy – although the temperatures were still frosty that morning. I pictured myself taking a still catnap along the shoreline as the gentle motions of the lake softly lashed against the gentle sand piles.

But alas, it was time to head on north. My next stop: Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore!

Further Reading

• Tobico Marsh: Tobico Marsh is one of the largest open water marshes remaining on the Saginaw Bay along Lake Huron in Michigan, and is located at Bay City State Recreation Area and the Tobico Marsh State Game Area. Designated a National Natural Landmark in 1976 due to its expanse size, its relative pristine condition and its variety of plant life, Tobico Marsh encompasses nearly 2,000 acres of wetland woods meadows, cattail marshlands and oak savannah prairies.
• Otsego Lake State Park: Otsego Lake State Park is located south of Gaylord, Michigan and offers 62 acres of a natural playground along Otsego Lake. The park includes a half-mile long white, sandy beach, with the remainder of the park shaded by large oak, maple and pine trees.

It had been about two years since I last trekked to Yellow Springs, Ohio to visit Clifton Gorge, but in my time in the hippie-filled and liberal-infested region home to Antioch College that I have grown to love and appreciate, I have only been through the narrow river gorge three times, one for spring, fall and winter photography. I remarked then that it was one of my favorite scenic and recreational destinations, partially because of its ruggedness and also because of its unique flora and topography amidst rolling farmland and small towns.

Clifton Gorge is a loose definition that includes three parks lining the Little Miami River: Glen Helen to the south, John Bryan State Park in the center and Clifton Gorge State Nature Preserve to the north. Glen Helen is comprised of a wider valley with the Little Miami River snaking through, featuring the remains of a dam that once held back water used for skating and boating for a resort, the Yellow Spring that the town is named for, and 400 year-old trees. John Bryan includes more rugged topography, with a narrowing valley and a diverse collection of spring wildflowers that is not found in any other part of southwest Ohio due to the towering trees, overhanging limestone cliffs and different soil conditions. And Clifton Gorge is in stark contrast to both Glen Helen and John Bryan, with a canyon that is both deep in height and narrow, featuring numerous small waterfalls, pools and sheer limestone cliffs, in addition to the remains of two mills. It is the diverse nature of these parks that helped mark the Little Miami River as a State and National Scenic River.

But this trip focused on photographing Yellow Springs and Glen Helen in the late fall. Most of the leaves by this point had dropped but it was still scenic none the less. A festival celebrating Halloween was ongoing in Yellow Springs – called Yelloween, and mild weather made for a perfect trip north. Find more photographs of Glen Helen after the jump »

A waterfall crashes down between steep limestone cliffs at Clifton Gorge State Nature Preserve.

The travertine mound and grotto at Glen Helen.

A view of the old dam at Yellow Springs, which was used when Glen Helen was a resort. The lake was used for boating and skating in the early 1900s.

The Yellow Spring at Glen Helen flows year round and has a strong iron consistency.

A diamond in the rough. That’s how Dave Shuffett of KET’s Kentucky Life describes Laurel Gorge in northeastern Kentucky.

Snuggled in a narrow valley along Laurel Creek, Laurel Gorge is one of Kentucky’s best kept secrets. The region is better known for its wide lakes and fishing opportunities than anything else, and the landscape is dotted with family farms and the Kentucky Quilt Trail. But nearly a decade ago, with the cooperation and assistance of the University of Kentucky Cooperative Extension Service, this small reserve was created to showcase the natural beauty of the region only minutes from the county seat of Sandy Hook.

And does the gorge pack a wallop to those who explore within its towering 300-foot sandstone highwalls and cliffs. It acts almost as its own biosphere, containing a seemingly different climate than the hilltops, leading to a diverse range of wildflower species – many of them rare or unusual for Kentucky. Laurel Gorge extends from the visitors center to where Laurel Creek meets the Little Sandy River, and over three miles of trails grace the park. An observation deck overlooks a seasonal waterfall, and a wheelchair-accessible boardwalk and wide path extends for 1/4-mile into a rock shelter.

At the head of the gorge is the Laurel Gorge Cultural Heritage Center, which features exhibits on local history, folklore and folk music.

Black mustard with a dandelion in the center.

Wood Violet

Large-Flowered Trillium, which is white that turns pink with age.

Large-Flowered Trillium

Large-Flowered Trillium

Large-Flowered Trillium

A rare beaked trout lilly.

Wild Geranium

After walking through Laurel Gorge, we ended the day with a short hike at Grayson Lake State Park just to the north.

A cluster of Forget-me-not's around the base of a tree.

Be sure to jump to the new Laurel Gorge page for directions and additional photographs!

After traveling the back roads of southwest Virginia and coming across some unexpected surprises, I opted to start out my second day of my trip to Cumberland Gap fresh in the early morning light and began ascending to Chadwell Gap and the Ridge Trail via the 2.9 mile Chadwell Gap Trail.

The trail itself is strenuous, notably for the climb that is required to ascend to the top of Cumberland Mountain. The first mile or so, however, is fairly easy, climbing a gentle grade north before heading west through a typical pioneer forest dominated by Yellow Poplar, Black Locust, White Oak, Red Maple, Sugar Maple and Hickory trees, among many other species. Approximately one mile into the walk, the trail turns north along an old road bed and begins a steeper climb to a former homestead, marked only by the visible remains of the foundation. The trail then begins a more laborious climb over rocks and a rough dirt path, although the rich forest floor becomes more abundant with mid-Spring wildflowers. As the trail progresses further up the hill, the tree stands become increasingly older. There are several switchbacks and steps, especially towards the top as the trail passes under an impressive rock shelter.

I am not the best with identifying wildflowers, so if you have any corrections or additions to my identifications, please let me know in the comment box!

A Crested Dwarf Iris photographed along the Chadwell Gap Trail.

Unknown wildflower. Please help identify it!

Wild Geranium's cover the ground.

At the top, I diverged left towards Hensley Settlement, which is an easy one mile hike on the wide trail that is shared with horseback riders. Hensley Settlement was a 67-acre self-reliant community, which was purchased in 1903 by Sherman Hensley and subdivided into 16 parts for his family and relatives. The mountaintop homes were constructed of chestnut timber with shake roofs, with stone foundations and chimneys – all locally sourced. Corn cribs, chicken houses and barns were built, along with a grist mill, school, blacksmith shop, sorghum mill and whiskey stills. At its peak in 1925, 50 to 100 residents called Cumberland Mountain home.

The last resident left the settlement in 1951. Since 1965, the National Park Service has restored three of the farmsteads to their 1940s appearance.

After setting up camp .3 miles east of the Settlement, I walked over to photograph some of the buildings as evening light began to set.

A reflection through a window provides a glimpse into a rough, hand-cut fence.

Unidentified wildflower.

Bulbous Buttercups in bloom.

Dogwoods in bloom at Hensley Settlement.

A view towards one of the spring houses used at Hensley Settlement.

After watching the sun set behind an ominous cloud cover that quickly rolled in, I retreated to the campsite, where I met some other folks who had backpacked in earlier. They had came from distant locales to take in the weekend at Cumberland Gap – Louisville, Kentucky, North Carolina and Virginia! The next update will regard some other features of Cumberland Gap, including Sand Cave and White Rocks, along with the descent back to the base!

Following up from the last update regarding Husky Branch Falls at the Great Smoky Mountains National Park, is a five-in-one waterfall special!

The first visit is to Mingo Falls, which is technically outside of the boundaries of the national park, but as it resides very close to the boundary, and presents one of the highest drops in the area, it is well worth hiking to. Lying within the Qualla Indian Reservation in Cherokee, Mingo Falls includes a cascading 150-foot high drop. At this point in the journey, the rain was coming down in a nice steady downpour, which made the 1/4-mile hike – which includes around 150 steps to the overlook – soggy.

Mingo Falls

After the visit to Mingo Falls, I wondered down to Asheville, North Carolina for the night at the wonderful Sweet Peas Hostel. The hostel, which is not only cheap, comfortable and clean, was located within walking distance of the Lexington Avenue Brewery and other attractions. Upon waking the next morning, I checked the weather forecast and figured that cloudy skies, a good chance of rain and low temperatures would result in some fantastic waterfall photography. So I headed west.

Located east of Cherokee, Soco Falls is a double waterfall located within the Cherokee Nation. The trail is 1/2-miles downhill to an observation platform, which provides good coverage southwest of the waterfall. A more crude trail continues further down, but it is not maintained nor sanctioned – and parts of it include a haphazard hand-hold, but it offers a closer and more personal view. On my visit, the waterfalls were shrouded in dense fog,

Soco Falls

But the fog did not last long. By the time I approached Bryson City to explore the Deep Creek valley, the sun was shining and the temperatures were rising into the upper 60s. Oh well, let’s get out and enjoy the good fortune of ideal hiking weather!

What was special about this hike is that the Deep Creek Valley is not only the base for many extended backpacking adventures – as the Deep Creek Trail is a main north-south feeder into the Great Smoky Mountains, but a base for many great day hikes. Combined into one loop trail, my Deep Creek Falls Loop is a 2.5-mile easy hike that provides access to Juney Whank Falls, Indian Creek Falls and Tom Branch Falls. The loop trail began at the wayfinder for Juney Whank Falls, and the first .1 mile of the walk was nothing more than a climb to the Deep Creek Horse Trail.

But I soon came upon Juney Whank Falls, a 125-foot cascade with a good 80-foot drop. The waterfall was named for Cherokee chief, Junaluska Whank who lived in the area. Junaluska was called by friends as Juney, and is rumored to have been buried near the waterfall.

Juney Whank Falls

It wasn’t much of a difficult hike to the next waterfall. The Deep Creek Horse Trail involves an easy grade to the top of a hill before descending towards Hammer Branch. Soon after crossing a small stream, the trail ends at Deep Creek Trail. Bear right onto the wide trail and turn left onto Indian Creek Trail, which is an earshot of Indian Creek Falls. Indian Creek Falls contains a 45-foot run and a 25-foot drop, and is nestled amongst rhododendron, making for a picturesque fall.

Indian Creek Falls

Heading back to the Deep Creek Trail, I proceeded southward, passing by Tom Branch Falls – which provides a nice 80-foot cascade down into Deep Creek. According to Waterfalls of the Smokies, Tom Branch was most likely named for Tom Wiggins, a Civil War Veteran who lived along the creek during the latter 1800s.

Tom Branch Falls

Trail information for the above waterfalls, along with trailhead location, can be found at the companion article Great Smoky Mountains National Park. Stay tuned for Fontana in the next update!

The Spring Grove Cemetery and Arboretum is located in Cincinnati, Ohio within the Mill Creek valley, and was chartered by a special Act of the Ohio General Assembly in 1845. Spring Grove is one of the largest not-for-profit cemeteries in the United States, and it’s manicured 733 acres are host to thousands of visitors every year.

This was my first trip to Spring Grove in my two years of living in Cincinnati, so I spent much of my day here. There are 48 photographs in this gallery, along with a brief history and description.

A curious fish stopped to look at me for a few, brief minutes.

Flowering dogwoods reflect in a lake.

Wild Blue Phlox

Round Leaved Ragwort

Mahketewah Lake

Cornus florida dogwood frame Willow Water.

Soldiers Monument was crafted by Randolph Rogers in Rome, Italy in 1864. Section 23

I’ve also added a few photographs to the Alms Park gallery. Located in the historic Columbia-Tusculum neighborhood on the east end of Cincinnati, the 94-acre Frederick H. Alms Memorial Park on Mt. Tusculum offers a breathtaking view of the Ohio River and Lunken Airport. The point was originally nicknamed ‘Bald Hill’ for the clearing created by Native Americans, who cleared trees to have an sightless view of the early settlers of ‘Columbia.’ Later, the land was owned by Nicholas Longworth who used the property to produce Catawba wine prior to the Civil War. It was later sold to Federick H. Alms, who donated it to the Cincinnati Park Board in 1916.

A statue of Steven Foster, who was known as the 'Father of American music.' While living in Cincinnati, he wrote his first successful songs, 'Oh! Susanna' and 'Nelly Was a Lady.' He lived in Cincinnati from 1846 to 1849.

Be sure to click through to Spring Grove Cemetery and Arboretum and the Alms Park galleries for more photographs! Enjoy this springalicious update!

Cincinnati comes alive with color during the early months of April. Having visited the Washington D.C. area last year for their annual Cherry Blossom Festival, I decided to spend this spring season wandering about Eden Park to photograph various early blooms.

Starting out with a sunrise from Eden Park overlooking the Ohio River.

A view of the iconic 172-foot high water tower built in 1894.

Mount Hood Daffodil sweep across the landscape at Eden Park.

Tenby Daffodil

Click through to Eden Park to find dozens of photographs from one of Cincinnati’s finest parks. It appears that the weather is staying stable, warm and dry for at least this week. Get out there and enjoy it!

The second of my two day winter trip into West Virginia, the first of which covered Dolly Sods, my friend Pete Jenior threw up the suggestion of visiting North Fork Mountain. This spectacular ridgeline, marked by major highwalls and fantastic rock formations, peaked my interest. I’ve passed by this several times via West Virginia State Routes 28 and 55 en route to Petersburg and Virginia, but it was time to hit the trail and climb to the top to see it in person.

The snows that had blanketed Canaan Valley and Dolly Sods only two days prior had all but escaped North Fork. Lying east of the Allegheny Front, it is one of the driest mountain ranges in the eastern United States, and composed of flora that is unique to this particular mountain range. It was a cold, dreary day, with the threat of an all-day soaking rain later that afternoon, but that only gave us more incentive to see this unique naturalized area that much more.

From the base, off of County Route 28/11 that branched off of West Virginia State Routes 28 and 55, we climbed the Landis Trail (TR 502), which meandered up the eastern slope of North Fork Mountain. Ascending 1,130 feet in 1.4 miles, it junctioned the North Fork Mountain Trail (TR 501) at the top. We beared right, following the narrowing ridgeline passing along the way an ideal campsite. Sheltered by the winds and under a thick canopy of trees, it’s only downside was that it had no reliable water source.

The trail afforded many spectacular views to the west of Germany Valley, Seneca Rocks, Fore Knobs, Champe Rocks, Dolly Sods, Roaring Plains, and the North Fork of the South Branch of the Potomac River. A few bring about wonderful photographic opportunities of Chimney Rocks, and arguably offered one of the best views in the Monongahela National Forest that I’ve seen — even on this moody, cloudy day.

A view of Chimney Rocks.

The trail begins its descent towards Chimney Rocks, and it is at this point that a rock cairn marks a departure path towards the highlight of the trip. We scrambled up the trail to the rocks, and was amazed at the formation and assembly of the rocks. Coupled with the wide, expanse views for miles around, of the Allegheny Front and the vast wildernesses that lay beyond it, it was one of the more enjoyably hikes that I’ve done thus far.

Chimney Rocks.

It was at this point, though, that it began icing and sleeting, so we began a rather hurried descent down the mountain. Climbing back onto the North Fork Mountain Trail, the path descends at a rather rapid pace, affording several great views of New Creek Mountain and the continuing North Fork Mountain across a deep cut formed by the North Fork of the South Branch of the Potomac. At the base of the mountain, reflected on our two day journey and went along our way. Such a fantastic weekend of exploration in the highlands of West Virginia!

North Fork Mountain

If you enjoyed these photographs, visit the North Fork Mountain page for more photographs from the winter expedition!

After a laborious hike to the top of North Fork Mountain, Pete Jenior and myself were greeted to gusty winds, pelting ice and rain and breathtaking views of Chimney Rock and the mountain range in this remote part of West Virginia. North Fork Mountain is one of the driest mountain ranges in the eastern United States, situated east of the Allegheny Front, which soaks up most of the remaining moisture and leaves the ranges to the east parched.

There is nothing better than being outside in the cold weather and being the only hikers out there!