American Byways

With an elevation of 4,863 feet, Spruce Knob is the highest point in the state of West Virginia, and is the summit of Spruce Mountain, the tallest mountain in the Alleghenies. The knob features a more alpine characteristic than other mountains in the Appalachians, featuring a spruce forrest and a boreal forest environment that is more featured in northern New England and Canada. While it was substantially warmer in the valley, leading to large snow melts, it was frosty and still icy at the top.

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A waterfall along Seneca Creek.

The Spruce Knob-Seneca Creek Trail ranks as one of my beloved loops in the Monongahela National Forest, partially due to its natural variety and for its incredible views from all sides. Begin at the base of the observation tower along at Spruce Knob-Seneca Rocks National Recreation Area from the summit of Spruce Knob 4,863 feet in elevation, where the 1/2–mile gravel Whispering Spruce Trail encircles the tower and offers a glimpse into the varied vegetation that is representative of the knob. Windswept trees cling to rocky soil, their branches growing eastward due to the high winds that are often prevalent at this elevation. Exceptional views are had to the east and west, where hikers can note the North Fork valley below and the Allegheny Mountains that trace back into Virginia.

From the parking lot, pick up the Huckleberry Trail (TR 533), which diverts to the northeast along a dirt and relatively rocky path surrounded by native grasses, wildflowers and plenty of colorful blueberry, huckleberry and azalea bushes. Boulders are strewn in an almost random fashion, with stubby spruce trees dominating the first mile and a half. At mile 1.9 are remnants of a small plane crash. The trail later enters into dense pine stands and begins a gradual descent down a hill, entering into two small mountain meadows. At mile 3.9, bear right onto the Lumberjack Trail (TR 534).

The Lumberjack Trail (TR 534) follows an old logging railroad grade through a northern hardwood forest. The trail is very easy to follow, although there are several boggy areas that require some maneuvering to escape from the mud. It is considerably less rocky than the Huckleberry Trail (TR 533), although some areas may pose some difficulties. There are some old crossties visible in wet areas. Follow the trail for two miles, and at the end of the trail, bear left onto the High Meadows Trail (TR 564).

The High Meadows Trail (TR 564) is my favorite segment of this trail, and provides the most scenic views of Seneca Creek, and offers diverse views that can’t be found but a few locations in the state. The trail descends steeply amongst yellow birch and cherry trees after leaving the Lumberjack Trail (TR 534), and at .6 mile, it enters into the first of four meadows. Three other open fields are encountered before entering into a hemlock and maple forest at mile 1.5. On these former pastoral slopes are some spectacular views of the Seneca Creek valley and Allegheny Mountains. The trail can be somewhat difficult to locate at times, but there are visible blue blazes on posts and cairns along the path.

At mile 2, the trail ends at the Huckleberry Trail (TR 533). Bear right onto the trail for .4 mile which descends into the Seneca Creek valley. At the base is the Upper Falls of Seneca Creek, one of the more popular destinations in the district. The usually jubilant creek drops 30-feet onto the rocks below. There are several large campsites with fire rings nearby, and this would make for an excellent camping location.

From the falls, proceed southwest along the Seneca Creek Trail (TR 515). The former railroad grade is pretty easy to follow, with the meandering path being quite wide in spots. The trail crosses Seneca Creek at three locations and passes by several smaller waterfalls before junctioning the Judy Springs Trail (TR 512) at mile 1.5. The Judy Springs campground is at the base of the trail junction, although it is no longer a supported campground with a well pump. A spring is located on the Judy Springs Trail just off of the Seneca Creek Trail, and is usually dependable, cold and relatively clean. As with the Seneca Creek waterfall, this is another excellent camping spot.

From Judy Springs, proceed south-southwest along the creek, following along the former railroad bed. There are a few areas where the trail may be a bit muddy from horses that share the trail, but small paths wander off to the side to bypass this. The trail will cross over the creek once more, enter a lush meadow, and eventually meet with the Swallow Rock Trail (TR 529). The trail ascends for one mile to the west and meets the Allegheny Mountain Trail (TR 532).

The trail meanders along a slowly shrinking creek. Note the beaver dam and meadow approximately 1.5 miles from Forest Road 112, easy to locate due to a number of dead or dying trees along the water. The trail eventually junctions the Tom Lick Run Trail (TR 559), which also connects to the Allegheny Mountain Trail (TR 532). Further past this, the trail begins to widen out and eventually leaves the old railroad bed for a former roadway. The trail ends at Forest Road 112.

If you used a second car, this would be the end; if you parked at Spruce Knob, follow the forest road up the hill. The additional four mile hike can take over three hours to complete, but it is highly doubtful you will become lost or disoriented on the trek up.

The hike can require two vehicles, one at each trailhead, but it is dependent on how much you want to extend your hike by. To locate the primary trailhead, follow U.S. Route 33/West Virginia Route 28 south to County Route 33/4 from Seneca Rocks. Turn right and proceed up the mountain to Forest Road 112. Bear left and follow the paved route to Forest Road 104. Turn right and travel along the crest of Spruce Mountain to the parking lot. If you require a second vehicle, continue to follow Forest Road 112 instead of turning onto Forest Road 104, and continue down the hill. The second trailhead is approximately 4 miles from the junction with Forest Road 104.

Find more about Spruce Knob-Seneca Rocks National Recreation Area after the jump.

I admit that I have been to West Virginia countless times in my past. And that I am a railroad enthusiast - a railfan for short. But for all of these years, I never made the drive to Cass Scenic Railroad State Park, opting to go hike at Dolly Sods or take in the morning at Cranberry Glades.

For this year, I received an invitation to attend the 2011 Cass Railfan Weekend, managed by the Mountain State Railroad and Logging Historical Association. It was to be my first true railfanning event, and I was prepared – and took my father along for the ride who wanted to see what Cass was all about. My bag was packed with a Nikon 80-200 f/2.8 telephoto, a wide-angle Nikon 20 f/2.8, and a versatile Nikon 35-110 f/4-5.6. It was time to drive.

The route east was uneventful and familiar. Interstate 64 to Interstate 79 to U.S. Route 19, all freeways and expressways and just a blur as I sped past the flora at 70 miles-per-hour. It was not until we got off the main route that the scenery and lonesome nature of the state began. We drove by the tiny community of Birch River and through the sleepy county seat of Webster County, Webster Springs. Going east along West Virginia State Route 15 was a challenge – steep grades and numerous curves along Point Mountain, providing a driving excitement that heightened as the sun began to set. We made it to Snowshoe at nightfall and after unpacking, decided to trek to Cass to see what the town was all about.

It was good timing. We arrived at Cass just as they were approximately half way into a night photograph shoot of several Shay locomotives.

After photographing for about half an hour, we headed out for our hotel room near Snowshoe for a brief sleep. After all, the next day’s activities began promptly before 8 AM, and when I arrived, the Shay No. 11 was resting at the Cass depot waiting to take those at Railfan Weekend to Bald Knob.

At 8 AM, the multiple Shay locomotives departed from the Cass depot, passed the Chesapeake and Ohio Railroad water tower, and began climbing Leatherbark Creek. This is my first time on a logging railroad, and was pleasantly surprised at how effortlessly the Shay locomotives took towards the 5% to 8.7% grades en route to Whittaker Station. We opted to sit in the open-air “cinder car” which was surprisingly empty – and we later learned why some opt not to sit there. Being exposed to the sun for much of the climb and being “cindered” upon was really quite the experience!

Alas, the train made it to Whittaker where passengers departed for the restroom facilities and to set up for photograph opportunities.

Whittaker Station was once a construction camp that debuted during the building of the logging railroad. It is now home to the Mountain State Railroad and Logging Historical Association’s Whittaker Camp, where the organization’s volunteers constructed 1,100 feet of track on three sidings in 1993. It now includes a display area home to three portable shanties that are patterned after the remains of the actual shanties, a replica cook and dining call and a log loader built by the Meadow River Lumber Company of Rainelle.

After boarding the train, the collection of Shay locomotives moved up the grade. The grade climbs past Whittaker Station, averaging around 5% to 6% as the rail line passes by Austin Meadows, Gobblers Knob and a panoramic overlook of Leatherbark Creek valley. A little under three miles from Whittaker is Old Spruce, a logging camp that was built in 1901 when the Cass rails were extended. The logging camp centered on Shavers Fork.

The Shay No. 5 climbing towards Old Spruce.

Old Spruce had a few houses and a dock that was used to transfer coal to the camps, along with an 800-foot siding. In 1903, the main line was extended northward 1.25 miles along Shavers Fork to Spruce, where another logging camp was established. The extension was used for two years and then removed. The line was rebuilt in 1945, lasting until the second cut was exhausted in 1950. In 1991, the track between Old Spruce and Spruce was rebuilt on a higher alignment.

The Shay No. 11 and No. 5 on the 1991-built track between Old Spruce and Spruce.

The Shay No. 5 at Oats Creek.

After visiting Spruce, the Shay locomotives made their way to the Bald Knob line, which splits from Old Spruce and heads eastward to Bald Knob. The 4.5 mile track was known as the Cabin Fork branch that once stretched for 12 miles, and was constructed from 1950 to 1958. The final segment to Bald Knob was the last active logging track, used up until the mill’s closure in 1960.

Not far from Old Spruce is the Oats Run water tank. The locomotives used have a steam syphon capable of lifting water into the tender from the tank. The tank is fashioned from the shells of antiquated boilers.

The Shay No. 11 passes by the Oats Creek water tank on an 8% grade.

Further east is the wye, which led to a branch with another camp that had five skidder sets. The wye featured the sharpest curve at Cass, with a 36-degree turn that could not accommodate the hulking Western Maryland Shay No. 6. It formerly had to travel along the stub track of the branch that extended for several hundred feet and back track until the curve was rebuilt in 2007 with a softened curve – all completed with volunteer labor.

The next hotspot was the DP Switch, located just short of milepost 10. A spur diverted north to several skidder sets but that line has been abandoned.

From DP Switch to Bald Knob, the Cabin Fork line crosses Big Run at a 9% grade before ending at an observation platform. The track originally looped at the peak to provide a turnaround, but that segment has since been removed from service.

That night, we were given a treat of the Shay No. 4 and No. 5 on display at the Cass depot. Despite some tough lighting and framing conditions, vehicles parking behind the depot in view of the locomotives, and non-historic lights, the Shays had never looked better. If only rail travel could step back a few decades…

It was fairly late by the time I finished photographing the Shay locomotives, and the events began again the next morning at 8 AM. We departed for the hotel and for the next morning we were greeted with the sights of the Shay No. 6 passing by both the No. 4 and No. 11 on the former C&O Greenbrier branch. We also watched the Shay No. 11 at the water tank being refilled for the journey up the hill.

Unfortunately, rain was in the forecast, so I left with one last photograph of the Shy No. 4 along the C&O Greenbrier branch composed during a downpour. We opted not to take the train up to the top of Bald Knob due to the deteriorating weather conditions, and headed over to the restored general store instead. I purchased a great Cass Scenic Railroad t-shirt and a Western Maryland hat, and visited a side store that had many historic prints for sale. What a deal!

And so that was my first railfanning experience. Despite the hot and then rainy weather, and the steep cost, it was worth the drive and sunburn – and the cinders. The money went to a good cause: the Mountain State Railroad and Logging Historical Association uses the funding to maintain some of the current operations and to complete volunteer-driven efforts to improve the rails at Cass. I look forward to returning to the 2012 Cass Railfan Weekend.

Be sure to check out the new Cass Scenic Railroad State Park article for even more background on this great park and for even more photographs. Enjoy!

The second of my two day winter trip into West Virginia, the first of which covered Dolly Sods, my friend Pete Jenior threw up the suggestion of visiting North Fork Mountain. This spectacular ridgeline, marked by major highwalls and fantastic rock formations, peaked my interest. I’ve passed by this several times via West Virginia State Routes 28 and 55 en route to Petersburg and Virginia, but it was time to hit the trail and climb to the top to see it in person.

The snows that had blanketed Canaan Valley and Dolly Sods only two days prior had all but escaped North Fork. Lying east of the Allegheny Front, it is one of the driest mountain ranges in the eastern United States, and composed of flora that is unique to this particular mountain range. It was a cold, dreary day, with the threat of an all-day soaking rain later that afternoon, but that only gave us more incentive to see this unique naturalized area that much more.

From the base, off of County Route 28/11 that branched off of West Virginia State Routes 28 and 55, we climbed the Landis Trail (TR 502), which meandered up the eastern slope of North Fork Mountain. Ascending 1,130 feet in 1.4 miles, it junctioned the North Fork Mountain Trail (TR 501) at the top. We beared right, following the narrowing ridgeline passing along the way an ideal campsite. Sheltered by the winds and under a thick canopy of trees, it’s only downside was that it had no reliable water source.

The trail afforded many spectacular views to the west of Germany Valley, Seneca Rocks, Fore Knobs, Champe Rocks, Dolly Sods, Roaring Plains, and the North Fork of the South Branch of the Potomac River. A few bring about wonderful photographic opportunities of Chimney Rocks, and arguably offered one of the best views in the Monongahela National Forest that I’ve seen — even on this moody, cloudy day.

A view of Chimney Rocks.

The trail begins its descent towards Chimney Rocks, and it is at this point that a rock cairn marks a departure path towards the highlight of the trip. We scrambled up the trail to the rocks, and was amazed at the formation and assembly of the rocks. Coupled with the wide, expanse views for miles around, of the Allegheny Front and the vast wildernesses that lay beyond it, it was one of the more enjoyably hikes that I’ve done thus far.

Chimney Rocks.

It was at this point, though, that it began icing and sleeting, so we began a rather hurried descent down the mountain. Climbing back onto the North Fork Mountain Trail, the path descends at a rather rapid pace, affording several great views of New Creek Mountain and the continuing North Fork Mountain across a deep cut formed by the North Fork of the South Branch of the Potomac. At the base of the mountain, reflected on our two day journey and went along our way. Such a fantastic weekend of exploration in the highlands of West Virginia!

North Fork Mountain

If you enjoyed these photographs, visit the North Fork Mountain page for more photographs from the winter expedition!

Dolly Sods is the highest elevation plateau east of the Mississippi River located along the Allegheny Front in West Virginia. Hosting some of the most spectacular scenery in the Mountain State, Dolly Sods is encompassed within the Monongahela National Forest. But its high elevation and frequent weather events makes finding good hiking weather at Dolly Sods nearly impossible to predict, and being stuck miles from any residence or shelter in the dead of winter is an experience that no one wants to encounter.

On January 23, 2010, I ventured a trip to Dolly Sods with my friend Pete Jenior from Baltimore, Maryland. I had been planning for a trip to the region for over a month, but frequent, heavy snowfalls and blizzard warnings all but starved off any attempt at accessing the backcountry. And I wasn’t about to tempt the roads — all two-lane, with mountainous crossings coupled with high elevations.

On the weekend that I planned for this trip, I appeared to be in luck. A weekend of warm weather — high’s in the low 30s with possible peeks of sunshine at Canaan Valley, in the valley to the west of Dolly Sods. I packed up and drove east, meeting Pete at the well-rated and affordable Ladybug Bed and Breakfast in Thomas. I didn’t get to the Ladybug until midnight, after encountering thick fog on U.S. Route 33 east of Elkins that slowed my arrival by nearly 40 minutes, but surprisingly, the roads were clear and well maintained.

After a good nights sleep, we awoke and drove out to Dolly Sods from the west via Forest Road 19, only to discover that the route was impassible. We turned back undeterred and proceeded to the eastern side of the Allegheny Front, where the snowfall is much less frequent and where the temperatures tend to be at least five to ten degrees warmer.

Turning off onto Forest Road 75 from Jordan Run Road, we drove up what was a plowed paved road before it became a snow covered dirt roadway with two worn tire tracks. Using that as leverage and traction, we were able to make it as far as the midpoint on the ascent towards Bear Rocks at Dolly Sods, before we turned off into a pull-off. We broke out the winter shoes and gear, and walked up the remainder of the road to the top.

Forest Road 75 to Dolly Sods.

After about an hour of trekking through two feet of snow and ice, we made it to the top at Bear Rocks.

Bear Rocks was amazingly beautiful and all quiet, sans the endless whistling of the winds as it swept the barren landscape that is Dolly Sods. An ice storm that hit two nights prior left the leaning pine trees and shrubs caked in a thick ice layer, forcing a gleam in the brief bits of sunlight that protruded through the low cloud layer. And a lot of dense fog.

Bear Rocks shrouded in dense fog.

Bear Rocks

Not a single soul was around. No tracks from vehicles, no footprints, nothing. We walked over to the trailhead for the Bear Run Trail (T 522) and plotted the day’s hike. Should we attempt a loop via the Bear Run and Dobbin Grade trails, and wade through the icy Red Creek? Or just protrude in and back out? We decided for the latter.

Wandering down the Bear Run Trail was an exercise in itself. While the first half of the day involved below-freezing temperatures, where we were able to walk on top of the two-foot snow pack due to the layer of ice, it became increasingly evident that the temperatures had risen. Crashing through the ice barrier and performing lifts on increasingly burdened legs became tiresome after a few miles, but the views and solitude were worth any effort and energy expended.

Crossing Red Creek along the Bear Run Trail wasn't difficult, but doing so further downstream along the Dobbin Grade would have been much more difficult.

The trail past Red Creek became increasingly narrower and harder to locate, so we began hiking off-trail for the lack of guidance at this point. I had done this trail once before, so I had a general idea of where to walk and where the high point was on our topographic map. After about 20 minutes of wandering, we were able to make it to the peak where in the fall, views of endless barrens for miles around were afforded. On this cold, blustery day, with fog enveloping the valley below, there were only sight distances of tens of feet, but that didn’t matter.

At this point, confident that we could navigate back to Bear Rocks by dusk via some off-trail hiking, we ventured down the slope towards Red Creek. After sliding down a large hill and poking my foot through rock crevices, we were treated with expanse panoramas of a pristine, clear valley along Red Creek.

Crossing Red Creek, which flowed underneath these large boulders, was more difficult for me than it was for Pete.

As we headed back towards Bear Rocks, it was becoming increasingly darker and we knew that we had timed our trip out in Dolly Sods perfectly. A bit worse for the wear and hungry, we ended the evening by walking down Forest Road 75 to the vehicle, and driving out to dine at the Blackwater Brewing Company, where they served great food and delicious hand crafted beers. I devoured a Wiener Schnitzel and downed it with the Blackwater Gold Ale, a good way to end a perfect expedition.

Here is a familiar photograph from my last trip to Dolly Sods, with a bit that I wrote to explain why I do what I love.

We are photographers, backpackers and admirers of the vast wilderness that lay amongst each mountaintop and valley. We do this not because of the photographs that we take, nor do we do this because we need a day off from work. We brave the cold and the unbearable winds because we have a passion to be out amongst the open, blue skies, the vast conifer forests, the bogs and wetlands, and the solitude that only nature can provide. The following image was taken at Dolly Sods, October 12, 2009. I woke up at 5:30 AM to pack my tent up in the windy, 30F weather, freezing in four layers, and rushed down to Bear Rocks to capture the stunning sunrise. There were few others out there, only passing by these two photographers who hailed from Winchester, Virginia. I was later greeted by four others — two of whom were from San Diego and came up here to “brave the cold and see the wild and the wonderful West Virginia.” This truly is a wild and wonderful natural area.

If you enjoyed these photographs, visit the Dolly Sods page for more photographs from the winter expedition. Stay tuned for photographs and a write-up from my trip to North Fork Mountain and Chimney Rocks next week!

After a laborious hike to the top of North Fork Mountain, Pete Jenior and myself were greeted to gusty winds, pelting ice and rain and breathtaking views of Chimney Rock and the mountain range in this remote part of West Virginia. North Fork Mountain is one of the driest mountain ranges in the eastern United States, situated east of the Allegheny Front, which soaks up most of the remaining moisture and leaves the ranges to the east parched.

There is nothing better than being outside in the cold weather and being the only hikers out there!

Bear Rocks at Dolly Sods in West Virginia, the day after an ice storm. We were the only ones at Dolly Sods on that very windy and cold day, which wasn’t all that surprising. It was one of the more rewarding hikes that I’ve done, and certainly one of the more strenuous. Taken on January 23, 2010.

Dolly Sods is the highest elevation plateau east of the Mississippi River located along the Allegheny Front in West Virginia, and boasts some of the most spectacular scenery in the Mountain State.

Sunrise from Bear Rocks at Dolly Sods, looking into the valley carved by the South Fork of the Potomac River.

Dolly Sods at sunrise.

A view down into the Broad Run valley, looking eastward to the Potomac River.

A view along the Raven Ridge Trail.

Bear Rocks Trail

Portions of the Bear Rocks Trail, especially closer to Forest Road 75, were degraded by years of abuse by a Jeep trail.

High elevation plains and bogs line the Beaver Dam Trail.

Dobbin Grade Trail follows an old rail grade and parallels Red Creek.

The Dobbin Grade Trail is a flat and wide path that winds its way through bogs and plains affording sweeping views of the entire valley.

Ferns basked in autumn colors.

Sunset.

Be sure to check out the newest recreation guide at American Byways, Dolly Sods, which contains two trail highlights, campground information and over 130 photographs taken over the span of two months. Enjoy!