American Byways

Waking up along the shores of Lake Superior at Five Mile Point was quite the experience. After car camping for the night, I came to and rushed out with my tripod to set up for the morning photograph. Grabbing a whiff of the crisp and chilly air as it rolled in from the shore, I felt refreshed and with awakened senses, I waited. With predictable results, the sun popped out over the horizon, providing subtle hues of warm light along the rocky and barren coastline, bounded only with the evergreens that hug the edge lines.

Living in the Subaru for a few days was actually quite fun. I enjoy my frugal road trips.

For the morning, I wanted to venture to Laughing Whitefish Falls, but roadway conditions led to an early detour and defeat. Following Deerton Road, I came to the small community of Deerton. The Detroit, Mackinac & Marquette Railroad constructed a station for the lumbering camp, and a post office opened in 1922. In 1926, a small school was constructed at the junction of Deerton-Onota Road. Today, not much is left in the community – most of the residences are abandoned, although the school still operates.

The railroad was dismantled only a few years ago, and is today part of the Duluth, South Shore and Atlantic Railway Rail Trail, open to snowmobilers, cross county skiers and cyclists.

Following Peter White Road south to Laughing Whitefish Falls, I came across increasingly deteriorated roadway conditions. The two-lane gravel roadway soon became one, and then dirt. And that generous dirt path became rutted before ending at a washed out bridge over West Branch Laughing Whitefish River.

I turned around and headed back to Deerton, only slightly discouraged. There were other waterfalls to check out that were nearby, of course! I ventured onto a dirt road and proceeded eastbound towards Rock River and descended southward towards Rock River Falls in the Rock River Wilderness. I turned onto a nearly unmarked Forest Road 2276 and followed this single lane route for 4 miles and turned left onto Forest Road 2293. After coming to the small trailhead at the end of a remote and rough dirt road, I hopped out of the car with my camera gear and headed down the trail. The Rock River Falls Trail, while not marked, is fairly well worn and follows portions of logging roads before coming to the waterfall, which has a height of 15 feet and an approximate crest of 30 feet.

After departing Rock River Wilderness, I took a drive over to Chatham for lunch at the Rock River Cafe, which serves local cuisine that was locally sourced. The cafe was also vegetarian and vegan friendly, which was a bonus, and served some great house coffee roasted in Michigan. Near to the restaurant was the former Munising Railway Company (MR) depot, which was later used for a private business and is now for sale. The rail line is today part of the Coalwood Trail.

Heading further east along Michigan State Route 94, I stopped for a photograph of the Lake Superior and Ishpeming Railroad (LS&I, MR’s successor) crossing that was built in 1930. The bridge was built over Au Train River, and the pipe that runs through the center is overflow for the Cleveland Cliffs Basin lake.

After following the LS&I long enough, I ventured to Miners Falls at Pictured Rocks. After parking at the trailhead, I ventured on a well groomed path that was .6 miles long and included 77 steps to the viewing platforms. Unfortunately, access further down and to a lower waterfall along Miners River is inaccessible.

It was only a short drive to Miners Castle, which is one of the most photographed rock formations at Pictured Rocks. But the viewing platforms were expectedly overcrowded and the lighting was poor, so I headed eastward along the Lakeshore North Country Trail, which generally hugs the Lake Superior Coast through the National Lakeshore. The paved path through a thick canopy of pines soon gave way to a single track dirt trail that sharply descended to the Miners River valley before coming to the backwaters of Lake Superior. I was able to capture two anglers who were trying their luck in capturing some steelhead trout for dinner.

On the other side of the sand dune was Miners Beach, which is a mile long and completely devoid of people .

The Lakeshore North Country Trail ascends a small bluff overlooking the beach, passing through acres of crimson red blueberry bushes.

With the sun waning, I packed my gear and headed further east to the overlooks above Lake Superior for a sunset. The light began to fade fast so I hiked at a brisk pace on a gradual upward course to the bluffs.

I wasn’t wholly satisfied with the first overlook that I came to, so I ventured a bit further east to the top of Bridalveil Falls. It was a natural clearing and was prime for a sunset. As the light faded, the storied sandstone warmed up with hues of amber.

It was at Bridalveil Falls that I met storied photographer Craig Blacklock, best known for his book The Lake Superior Images and other visuals from the Great Lakes region. Craig has been photographing the region for decades, and is also a passionate conservationist who co-founded the Blacklock Nature Sanctuary and was influential in the formation of the Lake Superior Water Trail of Minnesota. Also, thanks for the book, Slot Canyon. Your gift was warmly received!

Fantastic inspiration for a trip that has so far been marked with photographs of nature at its best when it is isolated and free in an area that is depopulated and isolated.

Further Reading

• Deerton, Michigan
• Rock River Wilderness
• Lake Superior and Ishpeming Railroad
• Munising Railway Company
• Miners Falls
• Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore

A taste of the upper peninsula of Michigan was what the doctor ordered. After relaxing along the sandy shoreline of Otsego Lake, I headed north along Interstate 75, breezing by picturesque family farms, forested hills full of vibrant hues, crystal clear waterways and endless wetlands at 70 miles per hour. Below is just a sample of what I passed through, with a brilliant and tall Tulip Poplar, accented by red Blueberry bushes that were just past their prime.

After crossing the Mackinaw Bridge, I veered onto U.S. Route 2, and the first signage that was noteworthy read: “US 2 is NOT a freeway.” Passing by remnants of a tourism past, by abandoned souvenir shops and closed wayside motels, I was reminded of how a post-World War II growth in tourism shaped many of the national parks, state reserves and natural sites that we visit today. Back then, the traveling public was not as much interested on the natural aspect of a park as much as the convenience and short-term draw. Comical storefronts, with flashy neon signage and kitschy apparel drew in the children and their free-spending parents, and the parks were small and underdeveloped. How times have changed!

Not far from the interstate is the historic Cut River Bridge. Constructed from 1941 to 1946, the Cantilever deck truss bridge spans the Cut River gorge. I have expressed more about the span in my other site, Bridges & Tunnels. Of course, the deep fall hues only accented the bridge’s curvaceous beauty.

I continued my venture westward along U.S. Route 2 and Michigan State Routes 117 and 28 towards Pictured Rocks. But there were too many distractions. For instance, I passed by the closed Tahquamenon Artesian Well Water Company in McMillian. Constructed as the McMillian School, the building was later used by the well water company. Interestingly enough, the bottling equipment still remains inside, and the building is currently for sale. (If anyone is interested in the contact, let me know.)

I also took a quick glance at the closed Shingleton School.

I finally reached Munising along the South Bay of Lake Superior. The name Munising was derived from te Ojibway language, with “Munissi” meaning island, and “Munising” meaning near the island. Grand Island is located only 1/2-mile north in Munising Bay. The town of over 2,000 is quiet, with only a single factory providing the only industrial base. Its natural surroundings provide ample tourism impact to keep Munising flourishing, and during this fall season, I had trouble locating a hotel room. Located in and around the city are many eight falls, and beginning on the eastern border of the city is Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore.

I quickly darted to the Twin Waterfalls Memorial Plant Preserve on the east side of Munising. The reserve, noted as the 100th sanctuary of the Michigan Nature Association, inclues two waterfalls along Tannery and Memorial Creek within its 15 acres that are dominated by sandstone escarpments. I parked off of the main roadway and began my climb towards Memorial Falls, which includes a moderate hill climb through a narrowing sandstone canyon to a 40 foot waterfall. Memorial Falls is dedicated to the memory of more than one hundred past Association members.

Tracing back to the park entrance is a second trail to Tannery Falls, which is equally as beautiful and just as high. Tannery Falls is dedicated to Rudy Olsen, who was an active Michigan Nature Association member that conducted numerous bird surveys and was a caretaker for the Timberland Swamp in Oakland County.

By this point, the clouds began to hover around Munising. I ventured into Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore to capture Munising Falls. The 50 foot waterfall, along Munising Creek, is one not to be missed due to its ease of accessibility and its three pronged trail network that offers spectacular views from varying angles. A spring melt will offer up better flow.

I ended my waterfall tour around Munising with Wagner Falls along Michigan State Route 94, south of the city. This small 23-acre scenic area features a small trail, almost entirely hard surfaced, to the waterfall which is approximately 20 feet high with a crest of 8 feet. Wagner Creek flows over erosion-resistant dolomite towards the Anna River, which flows northward to Lake Superior.

I finished the day with a sunset from the Grand Island Harbor Range Lights just east of Christmas. The rear range light, standing at 62 feet tall, features a 1/4-inch steel plate exterior with an interior spiral staircase and was built in 1914. The front range light is newer. The rear range light was abandoned in 1969 and declared surplus in 1977 – and is now available for tours in July and August by the local forest service.

A waning sunset from Bay Furnace capped this long and exhausting day.

Interested in purchasing a photographic print of what you have seen at American Byways? Follow through to Sherman Cahal Photography to purchase images for your home or office!

Further Reading

• Cut River Bridge (US 2): Cut River Bridge carries U.S. Route 2 over the Cut River in Mackinac County, Michigan.
• Tahquamenon Artesian Well Water Company: The Tahquamenon Artesian Well Water Company is located along Main Street in McMillian, Michigan. Constructed as the McMillian School, the building was later used for the Tahquamenon Artesian Well Water Company. It is currently for sale.
• Shingleton, Michigan School
• Twin Waterfalls Memorial Plant Preserve: Twin Waterfalls is part of the Twin Waterfalls Memorial Plant Preserve in Alger County within the city limits of Munising, Michigan. Noted as the 100th sanctuary of the Michigan Nature Association when it was purchased in 1987, the 15 acre site includes two waterfalls along Tannery and Memorial Creek in an area dominated by a sandstone escarpment.
• Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore: Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore, located along the shorelines of Lake Superior in the upper peninsula of Michigan, is 42 miles long and offers some of the most breathtaking beauty in the state. Located between Munising and Grand Marais, the park offers magnificent rock formations, arches, dunes and waterfalls along the coast, along with several waterfalls, ponds and wetlands inland.
• Wagner Falls Scenic Area: Wagner Falls is located south of Munising, Michigan along Michigan State Route 94. The small, 23-acre state scenic area features a short trail, all entirely hard surfaced, to Wagner Falls.
• Grand Island Harbor Range Lights: The Christmas Range Lighthouse is located just east of Christmas, Michigan along Michigan State Route 28. Officially known as the Grand Island Harbor Range Lights, the rear range light was constructed in 1914.

Set between two contrasting peninsulas of Michigan, Mackinaw Island represented an opportunity to visit a part of the state that I had not yet experienced. I made the drive up during the summer to witness one of the state’s most splendid tourist attractions: the island itself. Closed to automobiles, Mackinaw Island recalled back to a time when life was simpler, when traveling involved a meander on manicured pavements, passing by brightly colored buildings, overflowing floral gardens and charming window displays.

But for the fall, I wanted to take in the wilds of upper Michigan and explore Pictured Rocks and some of the waterfalls in that region. I had pictured the upper peninsula as being a barren location, isolated and hilly.

Well, part of that was true.

I started my journey from the Queen City and headed north along Interstate 75, passing by the Gem City, Flag City, Glass City, Tree City and ending that night at Bay City, Michigan. Finding no use in being completely wiped for the day, I located a cheap motel in the quiet town along Saginaw Bay on Lake Huron, and awaited the next morning with anticipation. At dawn, I found myself near the Bay City State Recreation Area, located north of Bay City, and basked in the morning light. Walking over to the Tobico Lagoon, I was able to capture the light as it filtered over the freshwater, coastal wetland. The cattails and grasses wallowed in the amber rays and the clear waters shimmered back reflections of the picture-perfect sky.

I decided to explore more of Tobico Marsh, designated a National Natural Landmark in 1976 due to its expanse size, its unspoiled essence and its assortment of plant life. The marsh encompasses nearly 2,000 acres of wetland woods, meadows, cattail marshlands and oak savannah prairies, and is one of the largest freshwater, coastal wetlands on the Great Lakes.

With the sun rising and my itch to head further north, I departed Tobico Marsh for the interstate only to stop soon after to explore the small lakes around appropriately-named Waters. I hoped onto the Au Sable Trail and some other back routes before coming onto Lynn Lake. Unfortunately, most of the great vistas were not accessible due to private land ownership, but I reached, in a roundabout manner, Otsego Lake State Park. Established in 1920, Otsego features a half-mile of white, sandy beach, 62 acres of a natural playground shaded with large oak, maple and pine trees. As an added bonus, there are some original Civilian Conservation Corp (CCC) buildings on site dating to 1935!

The air was crisp, the skies were a nice blue tinge and the sand was cozy – although the temperatures were still frosty that morning. I pictured myself taking a still catnap along the shoreline as the gentle motions of the lake softly lashed against the gentle sand piles.

But alas, it was time to head on north. My next stop: Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore!

Further Reading

• Tobico Marsh: Tobico Marsh is one of the largest open water marshes remaining on the Saginaw Bay along Lake Huron in Michigan, and is located at Bay City State Recreation Area and the Tobico Marsh State Game Area. Designated a National Natural Landmark in 1976 due to its expanse size, its relative pristine condition and its variety of plant life, Tobico Marsh encompasses nearly 2,000 acres of wetland woods meadows, cattail marshlands and oak savannah prairies.
• Otsego Lake State Park: Otsego Lake State Park is located south of Gaylord, Michigan and offers 62 acres of a natural playground along Otsego Lake. The park includes a half-mile long white, sandy beach, with the remainder of the park shaded by large oak, maple and pine trees.