Country Music Highway - U.S. Route 23 at American Byways by Sherman Cahal

Country Music Highway - U.S. Route 23

The Country Music Highway strays through the hills and mountains of eastern Kentucky, connecting the industrial Ohio River towns of the north to the coal mining communities of the south. Also known as U.S. Route 23, this four-lane highway extends for 144 miles, serving 14 communities, a hardy collection of museums, cultural centers, and historic Civil War sites, and an assortment of naturalized and recreational areas. The highway is part of the America's Byways network and is a designated Kentucky Scenic Byway.

The northernmost tip of the Country Music Highway is home to South Shore. Proclaimed as the gateway to the Commonwealth, this modest community of 1,200 along the Ohio River boasts a working downtown, where local vendors still sell fresh fruits and vegetables on the street corner, and where hardware shops and general stores still remain hustling in an era where the superstore reigns only a few miles away. South of the town, the four-lane highway parallels an active railroad and the mighty Ohio River before splitting further inland and approaching the unincorporated community of Lloyd. Nearby is the Greenup Locks and Dam, where it's imposing 1,200-foot lock chambers were larger than those in the Panama Canal when the facility was completed in 1962. It's striking modish design and construction was a model for other dam construction projects in the United States, and eliminated the need for towboats to stop at four antiquated dams.

Greenup Locks and Dam

The Ohio River once held 50 lock and dam structures that provided a nine-foot navigable depth along the 981-mile waterway.(1) Authorized by the River and Harbor Bill of June 25, 1910, the initial structures were completed in 1929.(3) Subsequent modernizations reduced the number of dams to 46. But due to ever increasing tows and heavier traffic, 19 new high-lift, non-navigable dams were designed to replace all of the obsolete navigable dams of the original system.

Groundbreaking for the Greenup Locks and Dam project were held on October 1, 1954.(1) Construction soon began on the cofferdam around the locks construction area, and construction of the locks themselves began the following year. Construction of the dam began in June 1958, and the first tow was passed through the new locks on November 27, 1959. The navigation pool was raised to its full normal height, at 515 feet, on June 4, 1962. The completion of the dam replaced Locks and Dams numbers 27 through 30 on the Ohio River, and Dam Number 1 on the Big Sandy River. The then aptly named "super dam" was dedicated on July 22, 1962,(2) at a cost of $53,900,000 and was hailed for its efficiency and size.(3)

The project features one main lock 110 feet wide by 1,200 feet long, and an auxiliary lock 110 feet wide and 600 feet long.(1) The lock chamber can be filled or emptied in only eight minutes, and a tow can pass through in just under 30 minutes. There is a non-navigable, gate-controlled dam comprised of nine gates, each 37 feet high and 100 feet long. A picnic area has adequate views on the Kentucky side, although a greater view of the dam itself can be seen from the state of Ohio.

From historic race tracks to rail yards

Just minutes from the locks and dam is the county seat of Greenup County -- Greenup. Lying immediately along the river, its was once known as Greenupsburg and was an important river stop for those traveling along the Ohio. It was also the northern terminus of the long deceased Eastern Kentucky Railroad, famous for its jug trains -- jugs of whiskey, of course -- and the "Blue Goose", a gasoline powered automobile that was converted for railroad use. But today, its more energetic attribute may consist more of Old Fashioned Days, where thousands converge on the town in October to celebrate the "good 'ol times"! The town's characteristics give it that Mayberry feel, where it's sleepy, unassuming nature is only assured by its hospitable citizens, whether its at the local church on the corner or at the stone-faced courthouse. A newly-constructed bandstand on the courthouse lawn hosts a circuit of local bands that add a touch of comely attraction. At the northern tip of the town is a now-closed truss bridge over the Little Sandy River. Constructed in the late 1800s, it is slated for replacement due to its deteriorated condition. Not far away, on Laurel Street, is the historic St. Lawrence Roman Catholic Church. Constructed in 1904, it is listed on the National Register of Historic Places.

Just outside of the town's limits in Wurtland is the Greenup County War Memorial, dedicated on November 13, 1999. Adherent to Greenup Countians who have dedicated their lives to all modern wars and branches of service, the small but visible park features several military pieces on display, including a tank, Howitzer, Higgins boat, and a UH-1 "Huey" helicopter.

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Caddy corner to the war memorial is the historic McConnell Estate, once home to John M. McConnell, who moved from Pennsylvania to Greenupsburg in 1813.(4) There, he practiced law and later served in the Kentucky House from 1822 to 1825, and in the Kentucky Senate from 1826 to 1830. In 1831, he purchased 250 acres along the Ohio River south of Greenupsburg and constructed a Federal-style home, and a smaller brick building for a law office. A windmill and several outbuildings were also constructed. Although McConnell died only a few short years later in 1834 at the age of 43,(4) the complex did not go unused for long. In the 1850s, his small one-room law office was converted into one of the first private schoolhouses in Greenup County. In 1989, Ameteck Inc. purchased the McConnell home and donated it, along with 1.06 acres, to the Heritage Arts, Science, and tourism Center in 1991. The house is listed on the National Register of Historic Places. The estate is open today to visitors and is home to the Eastern Kentucky Railroad museum.

Nearby, on Kentucky Route 3105, is the historic Wurtland Union Church. Dating back to 1850, it was located only one-fourth mile from the Union Civil War Camp Sweigert, and was constructed on land donated by fellow member George Wurts, for whom the city was named after. The church last saw services in 1974 and is currently abandoned.

For horse racing adherents, the Raceland Racetrack's ruins and abandonments lay close by along both U.S. Route 23 and Kentucky Route 3105. It was in early 1922 that J.D. Keene, owner of "Keeneland Stud," was planning to construct a fifth horse race course near Ashland. He purchased four tracts of land one mile west of Chinnville, now Raceland.(5) On August 28, the Tri-State Fair and Racing Association was formed and bought Keene's property and an additional three tracts for a total of 350 acres; Keene was made General Manager. The track opened on July 4, 1924 for a boxing event (5) and for races on July 10th, and was nicknamed the "Million Dollar Oval" for its lavish grounds and its elegant grandstand. From the grandstand, one could see all of the track and its size was unmatched anywhere else in the state. The bridle paths and the front lawn were paved over in red tapestry brick that matched the Club House, Stewart's Stand, and the Judge's Stand. There were pompous roses lining the track, along with a white fence constructed of wood and an iron rail. Inside the oval were exquisite gardens and a crystal clear lake. For miles around, boarding houses and motels were filled, and local stores would advertise racing information and sell tickets.(6)

Upon opening, the track saw 21 days of racing until August 2, where attendance figures were near 15,000 per day. The next few years saw several great racing events lasting over 20 days, and a special Chesapeake and Ohio service was initiated -- the "Raceland Special", as it was dubbed, traveled from Charleston, West Virginia directly to the race track.(6) But the Depression took a hold in the United States, and the track became a financial disaster. On October 27, 1928,(5) the Greenup County court ordered the foreclosure of Raceland. On November 9, 1928, the track was sold to the highest bidder -- a company in New York -- who was ordered to pay the $200,000 in mortgage, the back interest from July 28, 1927, back state taxes, and other creditors. Numerous attempts were made to reopen the track, and an organization titled Raceland Inc. was formed. They leased the track from July 1 to July 6 in 1929 for a festival. During the 1930s, Independence Day celebrations were held around the Grand Stand.

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Finally, on March 29, 1937, the land was sold.(5) The grand stand was the first structure to be demolished, but only a handful of buildings saw their demise. Numerous buildings were reused for years, including the Jockey Clubhouse, which now stands abandoned at a driving range just off of U.S. Route 23; others are residences today. Later, Chinnville was renamed to Raceland in honor of the once famous horse race track.

Following along the Country Music Highway is Flatwoods, childhood home to country music star Billy Ray Cyrus. His claim to fame started when he debuted his popular single, "Achy Breaky Heart" in 1992 at the Paramount Arts Center in Ashland, and when he starred in television shows like "Doc". Today, he is co-starring on the Disney Channel original television series, "Hannah Montana". Adjacent to Flatwoods is Russell, home to one of the largest railroad yards in the United States. It's railroad heritage bleeds deep in the town, from the railroad-themed Rail City Hardware store, to the Christmas lights that line the streets during the Christmas holiday season. Along Kentucky Route 2543 (Ferry Street) are two significant structures. One is the restored Chesapeake and Ohio freight depot, which was fully restored only a few years ago, and hosts functions and events today. It also acts as an impromptu museum, with photographs decorating the walls, reminding the city of its railroad heritage. Adjacent to the depot is a restored Chesapeake and Ohio caboose, which sets snuggled amongst bountiful flora. The other notable structure is the R.U. tower, which was host to a crew that was responsible for all passenger trains, and for all freight trains that originated out of the Russell rail yards. The crew was also responsible for all local switching traffic and for all through trains. What a hectic job that must have been!

Ashland and Catlettsburg

Almost as a continuation of Russell, is the largest city along Kentucky's Country Music Highway. Following the railroad tracks, the sizable A.K. Steel Ashland Works comes into obvious view, with its mammoth Amanda Furnace taking front stage. Named after the historic Amanda pig-iron furnace of the past, it rambles upon today, helping to produce steel for hundreds of industries. Follow a bend in the highway and Ashland appears -- a modern, bustling Ohio River city that offers a contemporary collection of art galleries, boutiques, and restaurants in a downtown that is undergoing revitalization. Once dependent upon downtown department stores and heavy industry to sustain its economic activity, the city has been gearing up for a shift to a much more modest, tourism-based community.

As one strolls down Winchester Avenue, the centralized focus for these efforts, recent attempts to improve the infrastructure are visible: freshly constructed sidewalks with hand-laid brick inserts grace the numerous storefronts and front doors, while "pocket parks", bold black benches, and retrofitted street lights breathe new life onto the streetscape. Institutions to Winchester include C.J. Maggies -- a staple to the city's corner at 15th Street for only a few years -- that serves up great wood-fired pizzas and Italian dishes, grilled entrees, and bounteous salads. It's corner building was beautifully restored and is emblazoned with activity pretty much any time during the day and night, it's neon signage acting as a loud beacon along the otherwise quiet street.

Other establishments include the Pendleton Arts Center, which houses 39 artists and a cafe under one roof. The center, which "strives to encourage and nurture artistic creativity," provides studios for artists so that they can whittle, paint, and design away without the hassle of renting a large building. Pendleton offers art exhibitions, events, and educational programs, and has public showings on the first Friday of every month and the Saturday after. Other artist booths may be open during other times, and the cafe is open during the afternoon and evening.

Of course, it cannot go without saying that the Paramount Arts Center is one of the largest draws in the region. Its dominant, classical signage, afire with thousands of light bulbs on many nights, is part of the grandeur that was nearly demolished in the 1970s. It's fully restored facilities hosts dramatic Broadway shows and magnificent musical acts on a weekly basis.

Down on the riverfront along 15th Street is a growing chain of floodwall murals. Depicting scenes from Ashland's past, including Clyffeside Park and Central Park, its vibrant hues and telling stories are part of a growing network that line the walls along the Ohio River. In the center of the mural project is the restored Chesapeake and Ohio freight depot. Home to Ashland's transportation center, where Amtrak and Grayhound lines depart, it is also the location where the farmers market occurs during the morning and afternoon every Friday.

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Nearby is the county seat of Boyd County. Catlettsburg is a historic river town with an impressive floodwall mural that is ever growing with each passing year. It is home to an active downtown and a restored Chesapeake and Ohio passenger depot.

More to be added on Catlettsburg and cities south as time permits.

Directions

The northernmost tip of U.S. Route 23 is at Portsmouth, Ohio, while the southernmost tip is near Jenkins at the Virginia state line.

Sources

1. "Greenup Locks and Dam dedicated." Kentucky Business, September 1962. August 17, 2007.
2. "Greenup Locks and Dam." Army Corps of Engineers, July 22, 1962. August 17, 2007.
3. "Understanding River Story Dates Far Back in History." Ashland Daily Independent, July 5, 1962. August 17, 2007.
4. McConnell House Complex. N.p.: Kentucky Historical Society, n.d.
5. "History and map of 'Raceland' Racetrack." Tony Cumpton Prints. August 17, 2007.
6. Reed, David. "Horse racing was it, but depression hit." Lexington Herald-Leader, June 24, 1966. August 17, 2007.

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