It’s quite the drive, especially for a first-timer.

I began by climbing US 421 out of Harlan, a steep two-lane road that passed by cliff-hanging residences, burned out restaurants and fantastic views of Kentenia State Forest and the Cumberland River valley to the east. I turned off at the top towards the Little Shepherd Trail, and began my isolated and wild journey. Except for the first two miles, the paved roadway passed by several run-down and abandoned trailers and residences. Trash was abundant, as was overgrowth and ill-maintained features.

But the private lots and houses ended as I entered Kentenia State Forest. Kentenia is the oldest state-owned forest, and was a gift from the Kentenia-Cantron Corporation in 1919. The vistas along the trail soon opened up and I was able to take in the majestic rock formations along Pine Mountain that were formed approximately 230 million years ago when limestone, shale and sandstone along the range was uplifted along a fault line.

I eventually settled upon an overlook near Jacks Gap and settled for a sunset of the Laurel Fork valley.

I made my way further east along the trail and finished with a twilight view of the Line Fork Valley from an overlook east of Kingdom Come State Park. As I was composing for this photograph, I was visited by a black bear and her cub! The pair wandered up the road towards my parked vehicle, snooped around and sniffed it out. I stood at my tripod motionless, trying to regain some composure and figure out what to do. I’ve read much in the way of tips and advice on how to deal with black bears: wave your arms, make noise. But I was enamored by these awesome creatures, and what right did I have to scare them silly for their curiosity?

After a few minutes of waiting, I breathed a sigh of relief when the pair walked off along the Little Shepherd Trail and disappeared into the forest.

The Little Shepherd Trail is worth the drive to, especially in the late spring when the catawba rhododendron and mountain laurel bloom!

As Kentucky’s first state park, opening in 1924, Pine Mountain offers views of the Kentucky Ridge State Forest, the Cumberland Mountains, Cumberland River valley and the city of Pineville. Cumberland Gap was initially planned to be a state park in lieu of Pine Mountain, but due to its significant cultural and environmental heritage, and potential to become a future national park, officials with the Kentucky State Parks Commission looked towards Bell County’s Pine Mountain. After local residents and officials collected the land necessary for the park, and then donated it to the Commission, the new park opened as Cumberland State Park. By 1938, the park name had been changed to Pine Mountain State Park to avoid confusion with Cumberland Falls State Park west of Corbin.

Thick fog has formed near Pine Mountain Lake.

Sunrise from Chained Rock.

A fantastic place to watch the sun rise is from Chained Rock, a boulder formation at 2,200 feet above sea level that is “chained” together with 101-feet long, seven pound links. The chain was carried up to the mountain by a four mule team in two trips, and was anchored to the rock with pegs 1.5 by 24 inches. The chain was replaced in 1933 by the Pineville Chain Rock Club, assisted by the local Boy Scout troop and the Civilian Conservation Corps. Chained Rock Trail, a short loop, connects a small parking area with the massive boulder.

The sun rises over Chained Rock.

The infamous Chained Rock overlooking Pineville.

The fog lifts over the Cumberland River valley.

Pine Mountain is also known for Honeymoon Falls, a 25-foot high waterfall along a small mountain creek that passes through thickets of rhododendron and towering hemlocks. During the wet spring season, the waterfall comes alive with a decent flow; during times of mid-summer and into the fall, the flow can dry up to a trickle. A 1.35-mile loop trail reaches up to the waterfall.

The Herndon J. Evans Lodge was first constructed in the 1930s as an office building for the park by the Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC). The building, built of native sandstone and American chestnut logs, was later added onto with 30 guest rooms.

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